Clutch Rebuild questions...

    Hello all,


    just a few quick questions as I prepare to put my 1987 K75S back together. it's been about 2 months since I pulled the transmission off and now that the long awaited cash infusion has occurred I'm ready to put it back in.
    here are my questions:


    1) Honda Moly 60 - apparently the lube of choice for every spline yes? I only ask because my Clymer manual recommends using some graphite lube on the Clutch plate splines in addition to lubing the input splines with Moly grease. I realize Clymer manuals are hardly authoritative but I figured I'd check.


    2) slightly more important is this - when I pulled my trans off I removed the clutch push rod for reuse as the "new" used trans I bought has no pushrod. I have checked the pushrod for straightness using the 'glass test' and it appears to be straight.
    BUT - after looking at the schematic on OEMParts.com I realized that I can't seem to locate number 14 (part # 23131239891) a bushing that is no longer produced by BMW... could it be located somewhere inside the shaft? is it just slip fitted onto the pushrod?


    3) my local BMW dealer not only doesn't have a clutch centering tool but had no idea what I was even talking about... annoying (this is the same BMW dealership that sold me a 'spline' lubricant with absolutely NO Moly in it whatsoever - I can't find it at the moment but it's not even the old BMW #10 spline lube, its some other kind of low-temp grease...)
    anyway, I read about the technique of using the trans itself with long bolts as a clutch centering tool - Experiences with this method?? am I better off ordering and waiting the extra 3-4 days for the tool?
    also the centering tools I found online are just a centering pin... nothing that looks like this: Dan Patzer's Clutch Centering Tool


    4) and last, I'm planning on doing the rear main seal (or the "Shaft Seal" as BMW calls it!) and I don't have this, can it be done properly without?


    Sorry for all the questions - I want to make sure I do this right so I won't have to do it again for another 20k miles (or have any catastrophes!)


    Thanks in advance,
    Bennett

    one additional question (just one more I promise!):
    what is the purpose of this tool: "Slip Sleeve"? the description just says "for installing clutch rod" - not very helpful.


    thanks.
    b

    Bennett,
    I may not be able to help you with all questions, but here is some feedback based on my experierience with 3 K-bikes that I have owned over the last 15 years:


    1. Since the BMW recommended Klueber Staburags paste seems to be unavailable in the U.S., a 50/50 mix of Honda Moly 60 and Wuerth SIG 3000 super high impact grease seems to be the next best choice. Honda Moly 60 doesn't have a lot of sticking power and it appears the anti corrosion properties are also not that great. The Wuerth grease is extremely sticky and also improves the corrosion protection. However, nothing seems to beat the Staburags.


    2. Don't know the answer to this one.


    3. I've replaced the clutch on several K-bikes without the centering tool. It s a bit trickier and it involves an additional assembly step, but it can be done: Upon reassembling everthing, only lightly tighten the 6 Allen bolts that hold the clutch assembly togeher. You should still be able to move the friction disk by hand between the pressure plates. Center the friction disk as best as you can and than VERY CAREFULLY install the transmission - just hand tighten a few transmission mountingbolts. If there was some minor misalignment the pushrod should center the friction disk. Disengage the clutch once by pushing on the clutch lever and the friction disk should now be perfectly centered. Remove the transmission again without bending the pushrod and then properly tighten the clutch assembly bolts to the correct torque.


    4. I've used a 1 1/2" socket to drive in the rear main seal and had no problem with leakage.


    Tom

    Zitat von "bobthebob"

    Hello all,


    just a few quick questions as I prepare to put my 1987 K75S back together. it's been about 2 months since I pulled the transmission off and now that the long awaited cash infusion has occurred I'm ready to put it back in.
    here are my questions:


    1) Honda Moly 60 - apparently the lube of choice for every spline yes? I only ask because my Clymer manual recommends using some graphite lube on the Clutch plate splines in addition to lubing the input splines with Moly grease. I realize Clymer manuals are hardly authoritative but I figured I'd check.


    I have used straight HM60 without any troubles. I've considered mixing it with a heavier stickier grease, but haven't done it.


    Zitat

    2) slightly more important is this - when I pulled my trans off I removed the clutch push rod for reuse as the "new" used trans I bought has no pushrod. I have checked the pushrod for straightness using the 'glass test' and it appears to be straight.
    BUT - after looking at the schematic on OEMParts.com I realized that I can't seem to locate number 14 (part # 23131239891) a bushing that is no longer produced by BMW... could it be located somewhere inside the shaft? is it just slip fitted onto the pushrod?


    The part #14 is not needed IF the bearing/cup assy #2 and #3 is updated to the newer #3 combination assy. See the note here.
    <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?model=K75S&prod=051986-091994" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... 986-091994</a><!-- m -->
    The first series used 3 individual parts, then they combined them and discontinued the single parts.


    Zitat

    3) my local BMW dealer not only doesn't have a clutch centering tool but had no idea what I was even talking about... annoying (this is the same BMW dealership that sold me a 'spline' lubricant with absolutely NO Moly in it whatsoever - I can't find it at the moment but it's not even the old BMW #10 spline lube, its some other kind of low-temp grease...)
    anyway, I read about the technique of using the trans itself with long bolts as a clutch centering tool - Experiences with this method?? am I better off ordering and waiting the extra 3-4 days for the tool?
    also the centering tools I found online are just a centering pin... nothing that looks like this: Dan Patzer's Clutch Centering Tool


    I purchased a centering tool off of e-bay and had to turn down the end of the pin to fit the engine outputshaft bushing.
    Some guys just use a small socket with some black electrical tape on the outside for a nice fit and then use the actual pushrod for centering.


    Zitat

    4) and last, I'm planning on doing the rear main seal (or the "Shaft Seal" as BMW calls it!) and I don't have this, can it be done properly without?


    Yes it can be done without. Originally the seal was put in flush with the engine block housing. All that the "modified" tool does is leave the seal stick out 1/2 mm from being flush. Put the seal in whith whatever else you would normally use, just don't drive it in totally flush.

    Zitat von "OoB"

    Again, follow Scott's advice and DON'T seat the seal flush! That was one of the reasons why my gearbox had to come out 6 times!!


    6 times! Why on earth is this so critical? I just realized that I have made this mistake! I set my new seal flush, and even a quarter of a mm in!! What a drag! I have a new seal and stretch bolts, probably best to take the clutch out and do it properly. According to this there is a good chance that my seal will leak.

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