Yet another oil question . . .

  • Bike purchased from original owner last spring, and have put 2500 miles on it. Owner had been using regular BMW 20w-50, but I've considered going to synthetic.


    I read somewhere that it might not be advisable to do so until the 'break-in' period has ended. Bike is now 15 years old, but very lightly used.


    Am I over-thinking this decision? Or should I just go synthetic and not worry? Lots of garage time to think about all these weighty decisions.


    Bob

  • Hi Bob,
    in my opinion using synthetic oil is a waste of money.
    Additionally starter problems could be caused by reducing freewheel assembly friction.

    Pibo_NF


    85er 0080397 K 80 CDI, HÜPI frischer Motorschaden
    85er 0110527 K75C, Getriebelager
    88er 0173965 K100LT, Wartezustand
    91er 0223885 K75RT, zerlegt
    92er 0122059 R80R, eingetauscht gegen 4V-Boxer
    92er 6458733 K1100N, in Auflösung
    94er 0198642 K1100RS, verschenkt in gute Hände
    95er 6369391 R1100GS, verschenkt in gute Hände
    98er WZC38719 R1100GS, Eintauschergebnis

  • Bob, you didn't post how many miles are on the bike. Some riders will wiat till after 25K miles before a change to synthetic.


    A couple of years ago I would have agreed that synthetic is a waste of $, but I was out shopping today and noticed that the dino oil is almost as much as the synthetic, dino is still cheaper but at least 2x what it was just 2yrs ago.


    I tried synthetic in my '97 2yrs ago, but I went back to the dino oils as they are a whole lot more available out on the road than the synthetic. That may change in the future, but even today you have probably 6x more choices of dino than synthetic to pick from.
    Just today I picked up 2 5qt Castrol 20w-50 for $11each(on sale from $20) and the Mobil One syn 15w-50 was like $24 for a 5qt bottle. Getting ready for the late spring oil change once the temps get warm and stay warm. I have my winter blend 10w-30 in now as I will ride in the fall till the snow flies or the temps get below 0'F.


    It's all about personal choice.



  • Yippee, another oil thread!


    Hi Bob,


    I would not go synthetic!


    Reasons:
    1. As pibo wrote, starter problems may occur.
    2. Synth oil has a better cleaning efficiency than regular, so residues within the oil circulation could be dissolved and might block the oil ways, before the oil has passed the filter. So a at least a previous flushing would be adviseable. But why do not sty with 20W-50 regular? Also 15W-40 or something should be possible. But this item could result in a "megathread".
    3. Synth oil is more expensive. (Ok nothing is good enough for our K's)
    4. The K-engine should not suffer from short hauls ( I don't think you are going only short distance), where synth oil has it's advantages.


    So ask your manual and believe me, no engine died only because of using recommended oil.


    And please consider, engine oil is a question of faith ;)


    Regards
    Walter

  • Hey,
    My latest 75s I got very cheap because the Sprag clutch did not pick up and the ADS didn't work (now does).
    I had a hell of a job removing the filter and found the oil was filthy. After a good flush with Slick flushing oil and a new filter I filled with Sythetic, 10/40. I have no Starter problems, a nice clean engine internally and peace of mind.
    My other 75s has Synthetic oil that pleases me.
    How can Synthetic oil effect starting? It cleaned the sludge from my Sprag to advantage...
    To each his own.
    Ajays Old Un.

  • Guys,
    " A CAN OF WORMS"
    I used synthetic oil, (once), in my bike and it kept disappearing, there were no obvious oil leaks so then I swapped to semi-synthetic and consider that the engine has the advantage of both oil types!


    Without going in to too much detail, it is the supposed purity of chemically engineered synthetic oils, based on polyalfaolefins, (PAOs), that allow them to have a less corrosive effect on your engine and by molecular design , they (in theory). move more easily at lower temperatures , penetrate more places, flush sludge, allow an engine to fulfill it s power potential in a more efficient way and on the whole are a more "refined" product. They are also geared to lower emissions and being "kinder" to catalytic converters.


    Mineral oils are refined from Crude with most of all the nasties taken out then blended.


    Semi-synthetics contain according to Mobll around 10 to25% severely hydro-processed molecules, in a more refined basestock.


    Wholly Synthetic oil is truly "liquid Engineering" on a chemical molecular basis, however, there are different opinions on what formulas make up a truly synthetic oil, different countries being subjected to different formulas, Australia being one example and there has been criticism of fully synthetic oils, in that additives are concocted to aid MPG combined with an obsession with emissions and targets for ever decreasing fuel consumption and longer periods between oil changes being supposedly targeted over and above the protection of the metals in your engine!


    But then I walk into a BMW specialist's restorer who says "there's a lot of crap talked about oil, and promptly, hands you over a container of Valvoline...so you takes your pick, somewhere the truth is out there!


    Or is all a question of clever marketing, playing on our insecurities, yet again?


    Cheers



    JBW

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