Beiträge von ReneZ

Hi Team, sorry, had some time out and then an issue finding the English part again

But, used BT45's whilst in Scotland for a few years and never noticed anything that indicated one-sided extra wear on the tyres. Thinking about it, I think it has to do a lot with your driving style and the typre of riding. With this I mean that if you do a lot of highway miles you possibly could experience it. I never noticed anything like that, but I used my bike predominantly for fun touring the curvy country roads in Scotland. This regular changing directions (differently (more thorough overall??) warming the tyre carcasses then on straight roads??).

Oh, and I'm jealous, never got that many miles out of the BT45's, but they were good for the type of riding I did.

I read on another forum that someone had bussing from the front suspension springs. Can't speak from own experience, but as you have tried all the usual suspects.... Good luck!

Both, many thanks, really appreciated!! I can see if the day counter
works, but am a bit afraid that driving with the needle at full scale
for some time would damage more (i.e. I don't know if all the damage is
done already )

Andreas, big thank you for the offer, I'll keep it in mind.

Hi, I'm still deep in my speedo.....

When the contact is switched on the bike's speed needle goes to full scale without running engine. I have isolated the problem to the actual motor assembly of the speed indicator. The amplifier board that sits at the bottom is OK, so it is something that is broken after the 3-pin connector on top. During opening the unit I noted that all the coloured gear wheels had 'selfdestructed'/part broken up and very soft. I have replaced the gears (Au - expensive) but that didn't fix the issue.

As it is the original speedo of the bike (and I'm an old sentimental fool ) I'd like to repair it. Is there someone who knows more of these parts or who could direct me to a person or website where I can get some help?

Many thanks, Rene

Thanks, appreciate the help! Meantime ordered a set of gear wheels after counting the gear tooth (a few times :-)) at http://www.odometergears.com. Not cheap, but hopefully last me the rest of my riding 'career'.

Thanks, problem is the pinion is plastic, so there is only very little heat you can put on it, but also very little force.

Hi, I posted earlier about having a very fast bike, even
without a running engine - speedo goes to max as soon as you switch on
the contact.
I have now opened the cluster/breadbox and found the
green and orange gear wheels partially without teeth and the bodies
flexible. Think someone sprayed electro-cleaner in there in anger and
the plastic is no longer hard. The little gear that drives it all has
broken away and was stuck between the other gears. Not good.

I
had an other speedo that I'll use as a parts-bin, but am stuck. All the
gear wheels are easily removable except for the little one on the drive
shaft (left of the orange wheel). Off course I don't want to damage it,
as I need it, but wonder if it is an interference fit or is there
something else going on.

Appreciate any experience out there!

[Blockierte Grafik: http://www.k100-forum.com/%3Ca%20href=]Picture of donor[Blockierte Grafik: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc2/hfxrzw/BMW%20K100RT/SpeedoGearwheels1.jpg]" />

[Blockierte Grafik: http://www.k100-forum.com/%3Ca%20href=]Picture of damaged gear[Blockierte Grafik: http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc2/hfxrzw/BMW%20K100RT/SpeedoGearwheels2.jpg]" />

Not yet Team I'm trying to find out if the identified problem is a known one. I have a spare good speedo, so that wouldn't worry me. Issues with the loom would though as that could end up in an endless struggle....
My K100RT in Scotland has been sold to a lucky bugger (had done a lot of work on her) and I'll be looking for a new challange here. Looked at one (K100 07/84) with the described issue, 40K miles on the faulty speedo (more on the bike). Asking was 2500 USD. Told him about the speedo and all the old rubber on the bike (brakelines original!) and the maintenance state and it's 2K now.

Whilst looking for a similar second hand as I had (K100RT 08/84) I noted that the bike prices in the UK, with the cost of transportation, would be almost the same as a similar vintage bike here in the US.

Jens, I'd be happy to have your bike here!! Less fairing, so not as hot as a K-RT, which is definitely an issue here

Thanks to all!

Heinz, many thanks, I have saved that link!

Hi Team, just wondering if one of you has seen this before (I haven't). I
was looking at a bike to buy (YES!! '85 K100) and as soon as the
contact is switched on the speedo goes to full scale without the bike
running. I wonder if the problem would be in the speedo or in the loom.
Any thoughts/experience? Thanks, Rene!

Repaired mine with JBWeld with good result. Make sure you clean the area proper and apply it evenly.

Fully agreed with Henning, you want the clearances to be at the higher end of the allowance. With wear the clearance only becomes less.

Although I appreciate your efforts the official BMW manual refers to the screw to set the idle with. I have copied these pages here before.

Our enemy

[Blockierte Grafik: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8HPKNrFpZdY/UFXzC-IYstI/AAAAAAAAD4A/lPOVnIdE1tY/s640/DSCF0344.JPG]

No worries mate, most welcome!

Jens and Ilke were shown Dumphries and Galloway and The Borders today, great trip! Bike was working like a charm!! I was home after 320 miles, felt great!!

My understanding is that the air flow meter affects the amount of fuel injected, not the ignition (the working of the spark plugs) There have been cases of broken/wasted tracks in the resistor tracks inside the AMM, but to my knowledge this resulted in a dead spot in the power of the engine, not full cut-outs. You haven't filled out your profile so we don't know where your bike lives, but isn't there another bike close-by where you can swap some parts with? ECU, Injection Comp etc?

OK, team, I think we have fixed it. Just did a 160 km trip around Loch Lomond and the bike performed flawless; good charging voltage and the battery charged further, ending at 13.4V after the trip. Jens will measure tomorrow before we take a trip through Dumphries and Galloway and the borders, but I'm pretty certain we have it working OK now. Thanks for all your help

Does it ever Mate. Not happy about that :oops: (my spare part that is faulty!) but Jens is now doing a test ride with my battery. If all OK we will fit his new one that is now at a shop being deep-conditioned...
Looking good!

OK, quick update. First of all many thanks for all your help, much appreciated.

The story in short.

Jens lost power due to low voltage. When he had the battery checked and some faulty cells were found. A new battery was fitted and the charging system confirmed to go up to 14V with increase revs. During the next trip Jens's bike lost power again in the same way. It was concluded that the alternator or voltage regulator had to be faulty. I had a spare one we fitted. Started the bike and it ran OK. Cup of coffee and a chat later it didn't want to start any more. Unknown to me the spare one was faulty, drawing the battery empty. We noted that there was still a draw on the battery (2.5 Amps!) with all fuses removed. After removal of the alternator connector the drain was gone, so we could not use the 'spare'.
We then found that Jens's the voltage regulator on the original alternator had some very short and uneven carbon brushes, possibly the cause of the lack of charging during the trip. We have now fitted a spare voltage regulator and will test today.