Instruments cluster bath

Hello!

I have glass in speedo broken - only a thin line at bottom glass edge. Yet this + one week of rain and yesterday I had a half glass of water in instrument cluster :(. It is ready to repair, but I can't find materials that were on old forum: instruction of disassembly, electronics diagrams(I think Petzi was an author) and on bench calibration procedure. If One would be so kind and renew the links I will be very happy.

Best regards,

Zitat von "Rafal"

Hello!

I have glass in speedo broken - only a thin line at bottom glass edge. Yet this + one week of rain and yesterday I had a half glass of water in instrument cluster :(. It is ready to repair, but I can't find materials that were on old forum: instruction of disassembly, electronics diagrams(I think Petzi was an author) and on bench calibration procedure. If One would be so kind and renew the links I will be very happy.

Best regards,

Please take it apart quickly. A few key connection pins inside the pod seem to rust and cause bad connections. I observed this first hand.

It is easy to remove the pod and take the rear cover.

I am very keen to see any electronic diagrams related to the instrument circuitry, so please post them or link them for us if you find them.

Just yesterday I did the speedo calibration and clock mod (that I will post in a minute). I used info from <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml</a><!-- m -->
Specifically <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/speedo-cal2.shtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/speedo-cal2.shtml</a><!-- m --> and
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/12-hour-clock.shtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/12-hour-clock.shtml</a><!-- m --> <--use this one carefully!!

The whole section labeled "Instrument Cluster" has some good stuff.

Edit: I found this in the Pezi archives: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.reflex.at/~pezi/2/1740383.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">https://www.reflex.at/~pezi/2/1740383.htm</a><!-- m -->

and you might be able to search the old board still:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://f3.webmart.de/f.cfm?id=2385371&l=2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://f3.webmart.de/f.cfm?id=2385371&l=2</a><!-- m -->

Zitat von "ned"

Please take it apart quickly. A few key connection pins inside the pod seem to rust and cause bad connections. I observed this first hand.

It is easy to remove the pod and take the rear cover.

I am very keen to see any electronic diagrams related to the instrument circuitry, so please post them or link them for us if you find them.

The glass is one-piece with the cover. I used a thin line of epory glue to seal the crack and it has been waterproof ever since, even riding in heavy rain.

Do your instruments still work? I can't remember if I disconnected all electrics at the time but no calibration was necessary. What say you Ned? Cheers, OoB

Glass and cover is obtainable from Motorworks UK, Also <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.motobins.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.motobins.co.uk</a><!-- w --> also have used parts, ask for Damien in an e-mail.......... e-mail address is; <!-- e --><a href="mailto:sales@motobins.co.uk">sales@motobins.co.uk</a><!-- e --> around £18
Ajays

Zitat von "OoB"

The glass is one-piece with the cover. I used a thin line of epory glue to seal the crack and it has been waterproof ever since, even riding in heavy rain.

Do your instruments still work? I can't remember if I disconnected all electrics at the time but no calibration was necessary. What say you Ned? Cheers, OoB

Hi Frank,
From memory the calibration of the speedo is possible, but I am not that fussy. The best way, from my point of view, to check the speedo, is to take it for a ride and with assistance of a GPS unit check the readings at various speeds.

As far as I see, the speedo seems to count pulses from the back wheel and convert them into voltage (analogue) so that the speedo needle can display it. I may not be absolutely correct here, but essentially that would make sense.

However, the rear wheel sensor and the generator wheel are in a fixed geometry so no matter what the tyre/pressure you use, the pulses are constant no matter what the outer circumference of the wheel is. As the speed is a function of wheel revs and circumference, tyre diameter is important. You can fine tune the difference between tyres by some adjustment (so the article said) but I've found that messing around inside the speedo is not worth trouble. I just make a mental adjustment