From Bottom Up

Form bottom up;

I bought a cheap plastic oil can, the trigger variety, and half filled it with Dot4 Hyd fliud.
I spent most of the day trying to expel the air from my Honda front brake and left slamming the door to think about it.
I have never had problems in all my years that weren't cured by leaving it overnight.
No joy next morning, so, with air wanting to get to the top, why not fill from the bottom.

The tube on my bleed screw I pushed onto the oil can and cracked open the banjo at the top next to the brake cylinder. I squeezed the trigger until it leaked at the top then locked the bleed screw tight.
I then pulled the brake lever to expel the last bit of air and finally tightened the banjo. Bingo. Perfect.

This method can be applied to our K's. Put plenty of rag around the banjo so as not to damage the paintwork.

My method in future.
Ajays.

Zitat von "Ajays"

Form bottom up;

....
The tube on my bleed screw I pushed onto the oil can and cracked open the banjo at the top next to the brake cylinder. I squeezed the trigger until it leaked at the top then locked the bleed screw tight.
I then pulled the brake lever to expel the last bit of air and finally tightened the banjo. Bingo. Perfect.
....
Ajays.

Do you have to crack open the banjo bolt? Is it possible to do something with the lever to allow air to escape?

Could be I suppose but my way worked perfectly.
I thought you would be working against the seal in the piston and I had just fitted a new kit there.
Suck it and see.
Ajays.

I just put fluid in the reservoir and operate the brake lever until bubbles stop coming out the return orifice. Once in a while I turn the fork and tap the hoses to make sure no bubbles are trapped anywhere. This, for me, takes about as long as conventional brake bleeding methods and is obviously a whole lot easier. As long as the hoses do not have any dips or loops that would trap an air bubble this method works very nicely. Bubbles want to travel upward. I fill completely dry systems this way, such as when I have replaced brake hoses or disassembled calipers. I use this method on the V-Rod too.

Yep,
That's the way I have always done it before, then put a tie on the lever to keep it open and leave overnight on the prop stand keeping the reseviour as high as possible. I put this method on this forum sometime back and Pezi advised to tie the lever back.
But from the bottom up for me in future. Bert (CrazyFrog) improved it by using a syringe instead of the oilcan. Give it a go "themason".
Nice to have you back by the way. Always a good read from you thanks.
Say, where is JBW?
Ajays

My K75S is making my back and wrists ache so have decided to make myself a pair of risers.

I have a metric micrometer so can sort it myself but getting a bit lazy in my old age ...so... what is the diameter of our bars and the pitch of the clamp screws.

Anyone know this please. I will set about making them before I strip it down...this will enable me to keep riding.

I have been in a battle with Bennetts Insurance for kicking me off as being too old.
They then posted an article of a 94 year old they cover.

However they have apologized and offered me £200 for their error.
Ajays.